1 - Know your restrictions:
This brought up what you needed to consider for the model itself. For example, one thing I haven't done (which I should) is measure my character in centimeters or meters as these factors can have a huge effect on not only the polygon count, but also how it scales when transferred to other things.
It also recommended that you think how the character will be used. For example, I know that my character needs to bend his fingers so those will need to be adjustable. I also made sure to get rid of the back of my t-shirt since the waist coat covers it anyway and it would only have added to the overall polygon count.
2 - Do your research:
I have managed to keep to this point quite well since it recommends using reference material to create your character model perfectly. Obviously I started off with my drawings before realising that I sadly wouldn't be able to follow my original 'One Piece' design, due to its complicated proportions. Therefore, I ended up sticking with photographs of myself for reference as I had multiple full scale shots from all sides to use.
3 - Start simple:
Something I wish I had done recently. The site recommends that you block your character first with cylinders so as to get a basic overall idea. However, I realise now that I jumped to the head and hands far too soon and therefore had to rescale much of my model later. Something that could have been avoided had I followed this tip first.
4 - Try subdivision surfaces:
It says that using subdivision surfaces is a really good way of smoothing a model and making it have a low polygon count. It's also apparently easier to edit and can later be 'baked' into a fully polygon-based mesh.
However, I feel at this stage, I will not be able to do this as my model is already complete. Therefore, I will try this technique if I ever have to do character modeling again in the future.
5 - Add detail only where it's needed:
I need to have a good think about how I want my model to be seen. After all, if I decide to animate only from one particular angle or from a distance then I may not need to include a great deal of detail on it. However, if the camera is close up then I will.
Therefore, I should try and decide in advance what angles and positions I want my character to be in and therefore texture them accordingly.
6 - Be economical:
Going back to the first point, this is all about removing what isn't needed so as to take up less polygons.
7 - Follow natural muscle lines:
By the sounds of things, it seems as if it was a good thing that my model was more naturally proportioned since following natural muscle layout will allow the model to look better and deform more convincingly.
8 - Retain a seamless model:
As I have learnt the hard way, you should make the clothes and body one and the same thing. Not only does having a body underneath clothes take up unnecessary memory (tip 6), but is also makes it harder to animate with something on top of it and, as a result may also cause parts of the model to go through one another.
9 - Keep your typology clean:
Make sure to only include what is needed on the model, otherwise it is unnecessary work that may also get in the way of the rest of the model.
10 - Check deforming areas:
Another problem that I have encountered already is not having enough polygons around the joints, therefore making them look jagged and plain wrong. Therefore, it recommends adding just a few extra polygons around these areas so as to make them correctly bend. The elbows will also need extra attention as these clearly bend a lot.
11 - Image planes:
As I have already done, this tip recommends that I import my reference images into 3ds Max itself, thus allowing me to get the correct measurements and detail needed.
12 - Work smarter, not harder:
In its essence, this tip means that if I ever make a great character model in the future then I should save it. After all, why do more work than you have to? Just use something pre made and spend more time making it into something new and better!
13 - Keep your scene clean:
By keeping your scene / character 'clean' you in short make things easier for yourself and others who may edit your work. Overall, this tip refers to correctly naming every piece of the model and deleting anything unnecessary, such as the reference images etc.
14 - Unify your normals:
Something I have been told to do again and again, I should always set my geometry normals to face only one way, not both. By doing this I save space and only show textures outside the character, not inside as well which would be pointless as that will never been seen by the audience.
15 - Let the normal map help:
Another thing I have been told to do again and again is include normal maps that greatly add detail to surfaces. Whether that be fabric or skin, I should try and include normal maps on my model.
16 - Prioritise:
Similar to tip 5, I need to work out the polygon budget for each area and decide what needs the most detail. For example, if a piece of clothing is meant to be more eye catching than the face then it should have more polygons to make it smoother, and vise versa.
17 - Keep regular, sequential back-ups:
Something myself and many others have learnt the hard way is that we should always, ALWAYS save our work repeatedly and make as many back ups as possible. Already many of my colleagues have fallen victim to corrupted memory and crashing computers, therefore I do not plan to do the same.
18 - Check the silhouette:
Sometimes the lighting in your scene can stop you from correctly seeing your entire model in all its glory. Therefore, try removing the lighting so as to make sure every aspect of it is ok. This is especially useful to do if you have spent ages working on it, as it will allow you to see it in a whole new perspective.
Harvard Referencing:
- webneel (2013) 25 Amazing 3D Game Character Design Masterpieces and Tips and Tricks for beginners. Available at: http://webneel.com/25-amazing-3d-game-characters-tips-tricks?utm_source=twitterfeed&utm_medium=twitter&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+webneel+%28Webneel.com%29 (Accessed: 8/4/2014).
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